Appalachian Trail

Nightime Pastime

The days are long and hard, sometimes short and hard, but the nights are long, because I always stop short of dusk. That gives me leeway as to where I will camp for the night, or if hiking to a shelter, more time to get there. The result is that I am always in bed early; if for no other reason than it has been cold, and my sleeping bag is the only place to stay warm.

I pass the hours by reading; couldn't have made this far without books. So far, I've read the following books:

Mystic River by Dennis Lehane
Good story. I wonder what part Sean Penn played? I see two possiblities.

Blessings by Anna Quinlan
Another good story. I became a fan when she was a columnist for NY Times and I think I've read all of her books.

The Footprints of God by Greg Isles
A techno-religious thriller. Interesting story and a page turner.

Hotel DuLac by Anita Brookner
Found this book in the East Mountain Retreat hostel. I read it, because it won the Booker Prize in 1983 (I think), and because it was short, and I could finish it before I left. Another good story; I like her style.

Money Ball by Michael Lewis
A fascinating book about baseball and the haphazard way the game has been managed. It is about one man, Billy Bean the General Manager of the Oakland Athletics, and how he employed technology and objective analysis to analyze the game and its players. Oakland succeeds with a payroll a fraction of the New York Yankees. You don't have to be a baseball fan (as I'm not) to enjoy this book.

A book I can't remember (My half-heimers at work, I guess)

Mt. Greylock and Williamstown, MA

5.06. Magic and I left Cheshire about 4:45 AM in the dark, my first time to hike with a headlamp. It was a short experience, because the sun soon peaked over the horizon and the morning birds started their symphony--woodpeckers too.

I was dreading the day, because Mt. Greylock, at 3,400+ ft, is the tallest peak on the A.T. in MA. It was not that bad, in fact the descent into North Adams was the hardest part of the day; very, very steep and lots of slippery leaves to slide on. Took me forever to get down that mountain.

I need gaiters, because when wearing shorts with nothing to shield the top of my boots, they collect everything; leaves, dirt, etc. Hard on the socks too. I read about The Mountain Goat, an outfitter in Williamstown who lets hikers camp behind the store, and I hitched into town from the trail intersection with MA 2. A very nice young woman gave me a ride; first time I've been picked up by a woman.

It was a good news, bad news story. The bad news was that The Mountain Goat had no shorty gaiters, only the long-legged type. I called another store in North Adams, but the woman who answered the phone, did not know what gaiters were--nuff said.

The good news is that, John Bryan the owner let me camp behind The Mountain Goat store. I slept on the bank of the Green River about 25 yards from roaring rapids that put me to sleep in minutes. And there was a picnic table there, so eating dinner was a treat. AND there was a laundromat next door. I washed clothes and slept in clean garments. It was great!

5.07. I got up at 6:00 AM and took the opportunity to rearrange my pack; sent more stuff home and repacked other things. The laundromat opened at 7:30 and I took my sleeping bag over and fluffed it up in the dryer. Convenient, because it rained last night and the bag was wet on the edges.

Williamstown is a very pretty place. It is dominated by Williams College and the campus seems to snake in and out of every street. It has the feel of a college town. I like it.

Went to the post office at 8:30 and the library at 10:00 where I am now, updating this log.

Back on the trail when I leave the library. Don't know how far I will get today, but probably not past the Seth Warner shelter, seven miles away and a 2,000 ft climb.

I'll be in Vermont tonight.

Slackpack Cheshire to Dalton

5.05. Tom drove us to Cheshire and we hiked the ten mile stretch back to Dalton (in reverse and without packs). Unbelievable experience to hike without thirty pounds on my shoulders! So this is what hiking is all about, I thought. Not bad. I flew over the terrain like I had wings on my feet.

Of course Magic was ahead of me, and out of sight within an hour. When I walked into Dalton, I was confused by the street signs and I flagged down a car to ask the driver directions into the town. He said, "Straight ahead, you want a ride?"

Aha, my chance to beat Magic, I thought, but he was already in the library when I got there.

Tom made dinner tonight; pasta and meat sauce, salad and ice cream for dessert. I ate like a horse.

We went to bed early, because we are leaving at 4:15 AM in the morning.

Dalton, MA and Tom Levardi

5.04. It was very cold in the Kay Wood shelter last night. I woke up at 6 AM, got up...and went back to bed. I got up at 7 AM...and went back to bed. This shivering scenario was repeated two more times, until 9 AM, when I managed to keep my feet on the floor. It was hailing when I left the shelter, but the swirling little pieces of ice soon dissapated and my walk into Dalton, MA, only three miles away was uneventful.

There is a famous trail angel in Dalton who lives right on the AT as you enter town from the south. His name is Thomas Levardi and his hospitality is legend. Tom keeps a water hose in his front yard for thirsty thru hikers, and he allows them to camp in his yard and to sleep on his porch. I was on the lookout for his house, because I knew that Magic stayed there last night, and I was hoping to do the same tonight. When I got to the house, the first thing I saw was Magic's pack on the porch. I knocked on the door, but there was no one at home, and I parked my pack on the porch and headed for the library and post office. (I signed the trail register so they would both know I was in town.) I did not expect to see Magic; I assumed he was shopping and whatever, and that when he finished his business, would probably be on his way to Katahdin. I spent an hour at the library and then walked about two miles to a major shopping center with a WalMart, a Barnes & Noble and a major grocery store. It was after 5 PM when I got back to Tom's and I was surprised to see that Magic was there. Tom soon came in and told me I could stay for the night.

The three of us went to an All-you-can-eat Chinese restaurant and then Tom drove us to a nearby mall with an EMS store. Then it was back to the house where I spent a very restful night on his porch. The next morning Tom treated us both to breakfast at the local deli only a block away. Then he drove us back to EMS, because I had forgotten to check on something I needed last night. An incredibly accommodating man, and a pleasant one.

I told them I had a maildrop waiting in Chesire, only ten miles up the road and Magic, who wanted to rest another day, suggested that we go to Chesire and get my mail, and then slackpack back to Dalton where we would again spend the night at Tom's. Then we could resume our Northern hike in the morning from Chesire. Only one hitch. We needed two rides to Cheshire; one today, and another tomorrow morning. Tom to the rescue. He took Magic and me to the Chesire Post office this morning; I put my mail in his car and then Magic and I hiked back. And Tom will take us back in the morning to resume our hikes. What can you say?

Tom has hosted thousands of At thru-hikers during the last twenty years and I can see how he developed such a stellar reputation. I have met some very nice people the past month (as I've written about), but my time with with Magic and Tom has been the highlight of my hike. They are special people.

Tomorrow, on to Maine.

Kay Wood Shelter

5.03. I passed the nine mile shelter, and went on to Kay Wood; 18 miles away; a world recored for Bear Meat. I was inspired by Magic, but the relatively flat terrain helped too; no serious mountains to climb today. I would have made it to Dalton, but I ran out of daylight.

Magic

5.02. I left Tyringham at 6:30 AM amid overcast skies, but a warm temperature; wearing shorts and SS tee. Misty rain started a couple of hours later..rain...stop...rain...stop. I held off donning rain gear for about three hours, because of the heat, but when the tempo picked up, I had to suit up. Temperature started to drop about the same time. I walked into Upper Goose Pond Cabin at 12:30 PM, looking forward to building a roaring fire in the famous fireplace, but the cabin was closed and the caretaker was not around. I wimped out and decided it was too far to the next shelter; I did not want to camp out in the rain, and I stayed at the cabin, because it has a big porch that I could sleep on out of the weather. Later I discovered the front door was unlocked and I knew I could sleep inside if it got too wet or too cold.

At 6:35 PM, I heard a noise and looked up to see another hiker walking toward the cabin. It was Magic Dinsmore, the lead dog on the 2004 Appalachian Trail. Magic left Springer Mountain, GA on February 16th and he is leading the pack; he estimated the closest hiker to him is about 100 miles behind. 1,532 miles in 2-1/2 months! I was awestruck; this is Rock Star quality, my friends. I told him I was honored to be in his presence. Then I peppered him with endless questions about everything I could think of. He very patiently answered everything I threw at him. Here's the topper; he did the same thing last year! Yep, back-to-back thru hikes. I said, "Are your nuts?"

Magic left the next morning at 7:00 AM and left a half-hour later. He was bound for Dalton, MA, 21 miles away. I was bound for the next shelter, nine miles away.

East Mountain to Tyringham, MA

5.01. I left East Mountain at 7:00 AM and walked into Tyringham at 4:30 PM; 13.5 miles today. It is hot; I would pay $100 for an ice cream cone. I stopped here because there is a pavilion next to the volunteer fire house and the community allows thru-hikers to camp there. A beautiful little town, but nothing commercial here, except the post office. It was a warm night with a light breeze and I slept good on the picnic table.

East Mountain Retreat

4.30. I found the hostel last night. It's about 5 miles outside Great Barrington, but only 1/2 mile off the trail. A real bed, hot shower, and washer and dryer for $13! My first shower in 15 days. Lois Rose, the owner, is a very nice lady. The retreat is just that; 3-4 houses on a mountain where people come to meditate and reflect on whatever it is that moves them. Her website is at http://www.eastretreat.org.

Lois has an affinity for hikers, and I suppose anyone who is in tune with nature and it's just her way of giving something back. She had a small sign on the AT marking the trail to the retreat, but the Appalachian Trail Conference made her remove it. Is the ATC another bureaucracy that has lost its way?

5.04. I've rethought the above hasty comment about the ATC. Two days ago I met a thru hiker on his second consecutive AT thruhike and he set me straight. He explained that the AT has to protect it's boundaries or anyone and everyone would be posting signs and other stuff on the trail. Makes sense. He also gave me an idea that might solve Lois problem and I will pass it on to her.

Salisbury, CT to Great Barrington, MA

4-27. Salisbury was a nice little village with all of the hiker's neccessities; post office, library, and well-stocked grocery store. I left there mid-afternoon and hiked to the Riga Shelter and spent the night. The shelter log dated 4-24 said that a bear woke up the residents at 2:15 in the morning. He was climbing the steps to the shelter when someone woke up and scared him away. I didn't sleep as well at Riga as I did the night before.

4.28. Left Riga and crossed the CT/MA state line at noon. Another state bites the dust! I hiked on until about 5:30 when I arrived at the Hemlocks shelter and I stopped for the night. Very nice shelter, with 2 double bunks and a loft that sleeps 4-5 more. And a picnic table. Nice to eat sitting at a table. It was a nice weather day for hiking; cool and overcast, but when the sun went down, it got very cold, very fast. I ate dinner and hopped into the sleeping bag. The hike today was the most beautiful stretch I've seen. I could see for 30-40 miles in both directions from Mt. Race. Spectacular views.

4.29. Left Hemlocks and remained on the trail until I came to a road into Great Barrington. I heard there was a hostel there with a shower and washer and dryer. It's been about two weeks since I bathed and cleaned clothes and I'm ready for some soap and hot water. I spotted an internet cafe as I entered town and that is where I'm sending this from. I discovered I walked the wrong direction for the hostel and I have to backtrack to go there. There is an outfitter on the way, and I'll stop there for better directions.

Falls Village CT

April 25. I left Kent, CT late Saturday afternoon and walked the Housatonic River for about 6 miles until I came to the Morgan Stewart shelter. Surprise, surprise! It was full of young women; four of them out for a weekend hike. They were all spread out with food, pots and pans, stoves, clothes, backpacks, and sleeping bags everywhere. "Where do you want me ladies?" I asked.

They politely, but I'm sure disagreeably, scooted around and made a space for me on the end. They were very nice about it and I tried to stay out of their way. I unpacked dinner and walked away to eat. And I generally stayed outside the shelter until bedtime. By then they were all tucked away in their sleeping bags. I left at 7:00 AM the next morning (Sunday) and continued hiking along the river for another 16 miles until I arrived in Falls Village, CT at 4:30 PM. Stopped in West Cornwall for lunch, but it was uneventful.

The forecast was for two days of rain and as I entered the Falls Village area I spotted a state trooper parked in the Regional High School parking lot, I walked over and asked him if he would arrest me if I slept under the overhang leading to the front door. He grinned and said that would set a bad precedent, but he went on to tell me about a park on the edge of town, and he said I could camp there. He volunteered to radio his comrades and tell them not to bother me during the night. A nice guy.

I walked through the park and into town, because it was still early and I wanted to locate the Post Office where I was to pick up a bounce box the next day. (A bounce box is mail that I forward to myself. I didn't need everything Annice sent to Pawling, NY and I forwarded some of it to Falls Village; that saved having to carry things I didn't need for a few days.)

I spotted a small eatery "The Toymakers Cafe" and I walked over to check it out, but it had closed at 4:30, only minutes before I got there. I stood on the porch pondering my next move when the door opened and a lady said "Are you a thru-hiker?"

"Yes," I said.

"Come on in," she said.

Ann and Greg, the owners were there alone, cleaning up and they told me to sit and enjoy. They opened the coffee pot for me and I sat and chatted with them for a couple of hours. They said that Falls Village is the smallest town in CT and it is populated by writers, some who live there full time and others who commute from NYC on weekends. They have a Post Office and a library--a magnificent Gothic building--open three days a week. The cafe is open four days a week. There is also a liquor store with snacks and a dog who is afraid if you walk in with your backpack on. Also a bank and an upscale restaurant and pizza parlor. A very laid-back town. When it was time to leave, Greg asked me where I was staying and I told him I was camping out in the park. He said "Camp out in our backyard." I spent the night under my tarp in a grassy area behind the restaurant. More nice people.

April 26. It rained all night, but my little tarp performed admirably and I emerged dry with only a few wet spots on the sleeping bag.

I went to the Post Office and forwarded the bounce box to a town in MA, because I thought I had enough food to get by for another 3-4 days.

Then I walked to the Falls Village Town Hall to look for a local map. The AT maps, although very good at displaying the details of the Appalachian Trail, do not include much information on surrounding areas. I got into a conversation with Mary Palmer, the Falls Village Town Clerk, and she told me about Sue Spring, formerly the town clerk of nearby Salisbury CT. Sue Spring, 65 years old aka Mama Lipton hiked the AT last year. Before I knew it, Mary called Sue and 15 minutes later Mama Lipton walked through the front door. We chatted for about 1/2 hour and she was very interesting and encouraging; I'm glad I had a chance to meet her. Sue has become a local celebrity and she has an AT presentation with visuals which she gives to various fraternal and civic groups. She took a 5 MB digital camera on the hike and apparently got some spectacular shots.

I returned to the cafe to pickup my backpack which I left on the front porch. When I walked up the steps the front door opened and Ann handed me an enormous cup of coffee for the road (they were not open).

I left Falls Village in the rain and fog and after walking for 2-1/2 hours in increasingly dismal weather I ducked into the Limestone Shelter and spent the night. It was only 4 miles from town, but I didn't feel like hiking another 8 miles to the next shelter.

4-27. The Limestone shelter has a tin roof and it rained cats and dogs last night. I slept like a baby, the best sleep night I have had on the trail. I did not get up until 7:45 and I felt guilty for sleeping in, but the sun was out and the birds were singing. Life is good.

I ate breakfast and discovered I had mis-judged my food inventory yesterday, and I decided to stop in Salisbury CT and stock up. I'm writing this from the Salisbury library. I'll tell you about Salisbury in the next post.