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April 11, 2004

Log 4-07 to 4-10

Log 4-07 to 4-10

4-07. In Branchville, NJ. Received FedEx shipment from Annice, then spent the day testing my alternate boots with the blisters--they felt worse. I sent them back. So, I guess the problem is my out-of-shape foot and not the boots. Also loaded my stuff into my lighter pack and tested that; it was more comfortable and lighter by five lbs., and I switched. I also discarded some more stuff and I have now lightened my load a total nine lbs.

4-08. Ate an early breakfast at the diner and loaded up on French toast. But then I hung around to watch Condi Rice's appearance before the 911 Commission. Saw about an hour of her testimony, and she looked evasive, but unshakable, but of course I don't know what happened after I left.

Hit the trail at 11:00. Met several hikers today; guess they were out for the long weekend. Stopped and talked to a boy scout group, and a group of three older couples who hike together every year on a different section of the AT. Day hikers, I guess; no serious backpack in the group.

Heard my first bear today. No mistaking that. He was off the trail and down the hill from me. I had just stopped for a break and I was sitting on a rock munching on a candy bear when he went off. Sounded like he was about 1/4 mile away. His roar shattered my reverie. Then he roared again. I left.

Trading packs and lightening my load helped; I did nine miles today, my best day yet. Arrived at the Mashipacong Shelter at 5:15, minutes ahead of the rain. There is a hi-tech solar-powered privy here. Must be special; two groups mentioned it to me today.

Cold and damp; going to cook noodles and then dive into my sleeping bag and knock off 3-4 pages of Mystic River.

4-09. Had the shelter to myself last night. Got another late start this morning; can't get up in the cold. I was about to leave at 10:00 when two guys hiked into the shelter from the opposite direction, and one was carrying my pack, the only time I've seen it on another person. Naturally we had to compare notes; we both had the same complaint, poor hip-belt support which leads to screaming shoulders. That conversation took about twenty minutes and I took off at 10:20.

Stopped at High Point Shelter for the night, a seven mile jaunt. The shelter is adjacent to the highest point in NJ (1,800'+). Again, I had the place to myself. I passed a park office with a pay-phone about two miles before the shelter, and I stopped to call. Anybody used a pay-phone lately? $8.00 surcharge and $1.17 per minute! I passed.

4-10. I forced myself out of my sleeping bag and was prepared for a 9:00 AM record-setting start when two guys again walked into the shelter for a break. You get the trend? Two days back-to-back I have been delayed by hikers taking breaks before I even get on the trail. This time it was a father-son duo, both carrying external frame packs, which produced a round of questions from me. Then I discovered the father did the AT two years ago, and that brought on another barrage of questions. Told them I was hiking to Unionville, NY and stopping for the day, because there is a well stocked grocery store there and a $3 per night hostel, The Backtrack Inn. The hostel presented an opportunity to nurse my feet in the afternoon. The father-son said it would take them 3-1/2 hours to hike the seven miles and I told them probably five for me. Surprise, surprise, I made it in exactly 3-1/2 hours. It was early afternoon when I arrived and I should have re-supplied groceries and continued on, but I didn't. I cleaned my feet, changed the bandages, and put on sandals. Felt good to be bootless for 1/2 day.

You should see the hostel. It has two double-bunked wooden slabs, and the floor is covered with lumber and trash (I'm the first one through here this year), but once again I have it all to myself. The bartender said I could use the restroom in the bar upstairs.

The grocery store will be open tomorrow (Easter Sunday), so I'll have a chance to pickup anything I forgot today. I strolled around town and found an old (and rare) book dealer in this thriving metropolis of 500. His business comes from the internet, he said. There were so many books in the small store, I could hardly walk. He gave me a paperback to replace Mystic River, as if I'll ever finish it.

I bought a NY Times and went back to the Backtrack Inn and read the paper in the bar. I thought I was in a casting call for Deliverance. The boys at the bar were all tattooed up, with full beards, wearing gimme hats and drinking long necks. There were two TV's on, both tuned to World Championship Poker. They paid no attention to the sissy hiker.

The bar remained open until 4:00 AM, and the music started about 9:00. BOOM BA BOOM BOOM...BOOM BA BOOM BOOM...BOOM BA BOOM BOOM. The same beat until 4:00 AM.

I hit the grocery store again Sunday morning and left town at 9::30 headed for Vernon, NJ and a Post Office from which to send back more things.

Made it to Vernon about 6:30. Thirteen miles today, best yet.

April 06, 2004

LOG 4-01 to 4-06

4-01-04, 6:49 PM: I'm in bed, in the hammock.. Weather was good all day; off and on drizzle, but otherwise nice. Hard day for me though; I climbed from the Delaware River up, up, up all afternoon. Very tiring with the weight on my back and I gobbled trail mix for fuel. I did not see another hiker all day. Started to rain as I cooked dinner--potatoes and cheese, and I scurried around looking for a limb to hang the bear bag (food) from. Ate and turned in with a pocket book, Mystic River. Good book; I made it through three pages.

4-02-04, 6:30 PM Temperature dropped into low 30's last night and I froze my tush off. Had on two pair of socks, T-shirt, two thermal tops and two pair of pants. I should have brought my tent; I could feel the winds whipping under the hammock. The rain made it colder.

Had granola for Breakfast, my favorite. Rain stopped and I broke camp and headed north about 9:30. It was another overcast day, but no rain and day-time temperature felt about like yesterday. Weather turned sour about 4:00 and I started to look for a campsite. I'm spending tonight on a ridge looking down on the Delaware River, 1,500' below; it's beautiful.

I'm hurting. Out of shape and carrying too much stuff. I estimate my speed at one mile per hiking hour. I must get my weight down or I won't make it. It's 6:30 PM, getting dark and the temperature is dropping. Another fun night. I didn't eat much today and don't feel like cooking tonight. Saw no hikers today.

4-03-04 Morning. It was just as cold last night--31 degrees @ 6:30 AM, but I was warmer. Made a lean-to with my tent fly and slept on the ground. The hammock is history. Will send it back when I cross a PO or UPS drop point. I have a monster blister on right heel. My fault; yesterday I felt it getting tender, but didn't bother to stop and put on moleskin. I will pay for that.

The AT passes by the Mohican Outdoor Center run by the Appalachian Mountain Club. I noticed that they handle UPS packages and I stopped there and pruned my inventory. Left a box of stuff with Dave Simpson, the manager to send back for me. "Back" meaning to my home base sherpa, Annice. (That's a compliment, Annice. In the Himalayan's the sherpa's do all the work and the climbers get the credit.)

4-06-04 The past three days have not been pleasant. Pretty cold at night, in fact yesterday morning I woke up to frozen water; both bottles solid ice. It was 21 degrees. The hiking has been rough; steady diet of climbing up--and hiking down, all on rocks. The famous PA rocks don't end in PA. I now have blisters on both heels, and I don't know how to heal them while encased in socks and boots all day. No chance for them to dry out. In desperation I called Sherpa Annice and she is sending my other pair, along with my tent, which will replace the hammock, and also some ointment for blisters. I am spending tonight in a motel sorting through more things to discard and lighten my load. UPS will deliver Annice's package here tomorrow and I will limp back to the trail.

I am amazed at the number of beautiful lakes in NJ. I have been walking a ridge 1,200' to 1,500' up and the views are spectacular. Saw a wild turkey yesterday and a busy little beaver today.

It's an interesting trip; if I had new feet I would be enjoying it.

April 01, 2004

I'm Off

April 1, Delaware Water Gap. Rain, light breeze, 42 degrees. Vital statistics: Ht - 6' 2". Wt - 183 lbs. Condition - Flabby. I'm off.