Appalachian Trail

East Mountain Retreat

4.30. I found the hostel last night. It's about 5 miles outside Great Barrington, but only 1/2 mile off the trail. A real bed, hot shower, and washer and dryer for $13! My first shower in 15 days. Lois Rose, the owner, is a very nice lady. The retreat is just that; 3-4 houses on a mountain where people come to meditate and reflect on whatever it is that moves them. Her website is at http://www.eastretreat.org.

Lois has an affinity for hikers, and I suppose anyone who is in tune with nature and it's just her way of giving something back. She had a small sign on the AT marking the trail to the retreat, but the Appalachian Trail Conference made her remove it. Is the ATC another bureaucracy that has lost its way?

5.04. I've rethought the above hasty comment about the ATC. Two days ago I met a thru hiker on his second consecutive AT thruhike and he set me straight. He explained that the AT has to protect it's boundaries or anyone and everyone would be posting signs and other stuff on the trail. Makes sense. He also gave me an idea that might solve Lois problem and I will pass it on to her.

Salisbury, CT to Great Barrington, MA

4-27. Salisbury was a nice little village with all of the hiker's neccessities; post office, library, and well-stocked grocery store. I left there mid-afternoon and hiked to the Riga Shelter and spent the night. The shelter log dated 4-24 said that a bear woke up the residents at 2:15 in the morning. He was climbing the steps to the shelter when someone woke up and scared him away. I didn't sleep as well at Riga as I did the night before.

4.28. Left Riga and crossed the CT/MA state line at noon. Another state bites the dust! I hiked on until about 5:30 when I arrived at the Hemlocks shelter and I stopped for the night. Very nice shelter, with 2 double bunks and a loft that sleeps 4-5 more. And a picnic table. Nice to eat sitting at a table. It was a nice weather day for hiking; cool and overcast, but when the sun went down, it got very cold, very fast. I ate dinner and hopped into the sleeping bag. The hike today was the most beautiful stretch I've seen. I could see for 30-40 miles in both directions from Mt. Race. Spectacular views.

4.29. Left Hemlocks and remained on the trail until I came to a road into Great Barrington. I heard there was a hostel there with a shower and washer and dryer. It's been about two weeks since I bathed and cleaned clothes and I'm ready for some soap and hot water. I spotted an internet cafe as I entered town and that is where I'm sending this from. I discovered I walked the wrong direction for the hostel and I have to backtrack to go there. There is an outfitter on the way, and I'll stop there for better directions.

Falls Village CT

April 25. I left Kent, CT late Saturday afternoon and walked the Housatonic River for about 6 miles until I came to the Morgan Stewart shelter. Surprise, surprise! It was full of young women; four of them out for a weekend hike. They were all spread out with food, pots and pans, stoves, clothes, backpacks, and sleeping bags everywhere. "Where do you want me ladies?" I asked.

They politely, but I'm sure disagreeably, scooted around and made a space for me on the end. They were very nice about it and I tried to stay out of their way. I unpacked dinner and walked away to eat. And I generally stayed outside the shelter until bedtime. By then they were all tucked away in their sleeping bags. I left at 7:00 AM the next morning (Sunday) and continued hiking along the river for another 16 miles until I arrived in Falls Village, CT at 4:30 PM. Stopped in West Cornwall for lunch, but it was uneventful.

The forecast was for two days of rain and as I entered the Falls Village area I spotted a state trooper parked in the Regional High School parking lot, I walked over and asked him if he would arrest me if I slept under the overhang leading to the front door. He grinned and said that would set a bad precedent, but he went on to tell me about a park on the edge of town, and he said I could camp there. He volunteered to radio his comrades and tell them not to bother me during the night. A nice guy.

I walked through the park and into town, because it was still early and I wanted to locate the Post Office where I was to pick up a bounce box the next day. (A bounce box is mail that I forward to myself. I didn't need everything Annice sent to Pawling, NY and I forwarded some of it to Falls Village; that saved having to carry things I didn't need for a few days.)

I spotted a small eatery "The Toymakers Cafe" and I walked over to check it out, but it had closed at 4:30, only minutes before I got there. I stood on the porch pondering my next move when the door opened and a lady said "Are you a thru-hiker?"

"Yes," I said.

"Come on in," she said.

Ann and Greg, the owners were there alone, cleaning up and they told me to sit and enjoy. They opened the coffee pot for me and I sat and chatted with them for a couple of hours. They said that Falls Village is the smallest town in CT and it is populated by writers, some who live there full time and others who commute from NYC on weekends. They have a Post Office and a library--a magnificent Gothic building--open three days a week. The cafe is open four days a week. There is also a liquor store with snacks and a dog who is afraid if you walk in with your backpack on. Also a bank and an upscale restaurant and pizza parlor. A very laid-back town. When it was time to leave, Greg asked me where I was staying and I told him I was camping out in the park. He said "Camp out in our backyard." I spent the night under my tarp in a grassy area behind the restaurant. More nice people.

April 26. It rained all night, but my little tarp performed admirably and I emerged dry with only a few wet spots on the sleeping bag.

I went to the Post Office and forwarded the bounce box to a town in MA, because I thought I had enough food to get by for another 3-4 days.

Then I walked to the Falls Village Town Hall to look for a local map. The AT maps, although very good at displaying the details of the Appalachian Trail, do not include much information on surrounding areas. I got into a conversation with Mary Palmer, the Falls Village Town Clerk, and she told me about Sue Spring, formerly the town clerk of nearby Salisbury CT. Sue Spring, 65 years old aka Mama Lipton hiked the AT last year. Before I knew it, Mary called Sue and 15 minutes later Mama Lipton walked through the front door. We chatted for about 1/2 hour and she was very interesting and encouraging; I'm glad I had a chance to meet her. Sue has become a local celebrity and she has an AT presentation with visuals which she gives to various fraternal and civic groups. She took a 5 MB digital camera on the hike and apparently got some spectacular shots.

I returned to the cafe to pickup my backpack which I left on the front porch. When I walked up the steps the front door opened and Ann handed me an enormous cup of coffee for the road (they were not open).

I left Falls Village in the rain and fog and after walking for 2-1/2 hours in increasingly dismal weather I ducked into the Limestone Shelter and spent the night. It was only 4 miles from town, but I didn't feel like hiking another 8 miles to the next shelter.

4-27. The Limestone shelter has a tin roof and it rained cats and dogs last night. I slept like a baby, the best sleep night I have had on the trail. I did not get up until 7:45 and I felt guilty for sleeping in, but the sun was out and the birds were singing. Life is good.

I ate breakfast and discovered I had mis-judged my food inventory yesterday, and I decided to stop in Salisbury CT and stock up. I'm writing this from the Salisbury library. I'll tell you about Salisbury in the next post.

Gates to Heaven

I'm in Kent, CT updating from the library. Only 30 minutes per PC session, so I will be brief. Two days ago on April 22nd I was walking along in the middle of nowhere, when I turned a corner and I was looking at the Gates to Heaven, a cemetary with a brick arch at the entrance and the name inscribed in metal on top. It was about the size of a football field with five tombstones, all of them separated by great distance. Beautiful, haunting, and sad.

I hustled from Pawling to the Wiley shelter for the night, about 9 miles. Made it barely ahead of the rain. It rained all night and continued until 11:00 AM the next morning (yesterday). I left the shelter at noon and and the rain Gods resumed their drizzle as if they had been waiting on me to venture out. It was OK though, my rain gear works great and my body and my backpack were dry when I arrived at the Ten Mile Shelter in Connecticut. Shared the shelter with two locals out for the weekend. I'm in Connecticut! Bye, bye New York and New Jersey, a mere 160 miles in total, but two states are behind me. A Win is a Win, as they say. I'll take it. Only twelve states and 2,000 miles to go.

I hiked along the Housatonic River this morning on my way into Kent. Thought I was in New Mexico or Colorado; serious rapids and a beautiful river.

Kent is as nice as Pawling, but not as natural; more of a Muffy and Buffy atmosphere (New Yorkers double the population on the weekends, I'm told). I detoured here, because there is an outfitter in town, the first I've encountered on the hike, and I needed to repair a couple of things. I hit the Post Office and the grocery store and now the library.

It's a beautiful day (Saturday) and the forecast calls for a couple of days of clear weather before the rain returns.

I'm outta here when I leave the library.

Pocket PC-Cell Phone Died

My communications tool died this morning; not the battery, but something more serious. I'm sending this from the Pawling Public Library PC. If I happen to be near a major town I will look for a Sprint Store; maybe they will replace it. I'm still in Pawling this morning. Sorted through things from Annice; packed 4-5 days of food in backpack and mailed the rest to Falls Village, CT where I'll pick-up on Tuesday. Slept in the town park last night in the pavilion. Not as cold; much easier to get up this morning. I stopped at the fishing store and got my Burly fix, and I'm off. It's a pretty day.

Pawling, NY

I'm in Pawling, NY to pick up the package from Annice. This is the neatest town I've been in. Everything I need--Post Office, Library, Deli, and 24-hour laundry--is within one block. Very friendly people too. And I met a beautiful black lab named Burly in the fishing store. He is 7 months old and weighs 113; he will be a giant dog, but he is gentle as a kitten. Took his photo, but he wouldn't stay still, so it probably didn't turn out. Got a haircut from Caroline Kennedy. Could I make it up?

Log 4-16 to 4-20

My last entry was from Hemlock Springs campsite. I left there at 7:30 the next morning and I blew by Graymor about 10:00 and didn't bother to stop.

It was a beautiful day, Saturday, I think and I was mindlessly walking along when I looked up and saw Peter Pan dancing down the trail toward me. As we closed I could see that Peter was a woman, at least 80 years old. We stopped and talked and her personality was as lively as her step. She was about 5 feet tall with a small daypack on her back and her hair was beautiful; gray, thick, long, and down to her shoulders. I told her it was gorgeous. She asked me where I was going, and I said Maine, and she said, well you're on the wrong trail. I missed a turn about 50 yards before we met. Ha..Ha, my little Navigator. She reminded me of Maude in the movie Harold and Maude.

I slept under the stars Saturday night.

Sunday, I realized I was running out of food and out of nearby places to buy anything, and I sent Sherpa Annice an emergency email request for a food maildrop to Pawling, NY, but that still left me three days without grub (Mon-Wed). Sunday was a beautiful weekend day and I met several day hikers. When I encountered them near a road, I asked if they knew of a deli or grocery store in either direction, because my Trail Guide is two years old and I assume not up-to-date.

My first surprise came when I stopped and talked to a young couple from NYC. They said no, there was not a grocery store in the vicinity, and then she opened her daypack and gave me an apple and candy bar. I was shocked; a very nice gesture. The best apple I ever ate!

About an hour later and shortly after I crossed 301, a major road, I met a guy walking alone, and we stopped and chatted. He was interested in my trekking poles and wondered if they acted somewhat like ski poles. I told him I had no idea, never having been on skis in my life.

His name was Martin and he had a kind face with a full beard and thick mane of hair (my weekend for hair), and I wondered if he was a monk from the Graymor Friary, but I later discovered not. He was well traveled; Russia, Middle East and East and West Europe. Eventually I got to my question, which was, You know of any nearby grocery stores? Martin said no, but I will drive you to the nearest town. I couldn't believe my ears. I meekly protested--not too strongly--and we were soon zooming into town. Along the way I discovered that Martin is a holistic vegetarian, and I laughed to myself as he followed me down the grocery aisles watching the candy bars, donuts, and jerky fall into the cart. I tried to buy gas for his car but he wouldn't take it. We returned to the trail and he hiked with me for about twenty minutes and then he was gone. A very nice and generous man. I've thought of him with every bite oof food the last two days.

Last night I was in the Morgan Stewart shelter with three teenage boys. They came in about an hour after I got there. They looked tired and I could see they were lugging big packs. Then they started dinner and I saw where the weight came from; out came kitchen sized pots and pans and food to feed an army. They cooked and ate for two hours! Nice kids; kept the music inside the headphones.

I left the trio sound asleep at 8:00 this morning and dashed to the Telephone Pioneers shelter about four miles from Pawling. I'm two days early for my maildrop and I'm soaking up the sun this afternoon. Tomorrow I will go to Pawling and check the mail; the package might be there, but if not I can camp out in the town park and wait another day.

Repost

10:30 AM. Scratch Bear Mountain, it was Black Mountain, and 34 miles from NYC, not 15. (Helps to look at the charts.) That will tell you how clear it was Friday Morning.

Departed Brien Shelter this morning at 8:00 headed for Graymoor Friary, 15 miles away. Didn't make it. Hard day for me; stopped at Hemlock Springs campsite at 5:30 PM, because I was running out of daylight. Only 11 miles today.

Interesting day. The trail goes through the zoo at the Harriman State Park. Very nice. Especially the vending machines. I scored.

I'm under the stars tonight, no shelter here. I hung a hammock fly over my sleeping bag; might keep the dew off, but it's too small to fend off rain. I'm the onky one here.

Bear Mountain

This may be out of order, didn't get posted when first sent.

4-16, 9:06 AM. I'm on top of Bear Mountain, the highest point on the AT in NY, I think. I can see NYC, about 16 miles away. Beautiful!

Yesterday was first clear weather day of the whole trip. Hiked 13 miles. Trying for 15 today. Going to spend the night with some monks if they'll let me in.

Morningbirds are coming alive. I've heard them for last couple of days. Nice way to wake up.

Log 4-11 to 4-14

I wrote about arriving in Vernon, but not about what happened to me there. I had read about the hiker's hostel at St. Thomas Episcopal Church, but it does not open until June. I thought, it's Easter, maybe the Pastor will be in a generous mood.

I arrived there at dusk and the church was dark, but I saw lights in the Parsonage. I knocked. The door opened and a sleepy face looked at me and said, "May I help you?"

I told Steve Steele, the pastor, my plight. He looked me over and then said, "follow me."

We walked to the church and the man turned the building over to me. He introduced me to a shower, a washer and dryer and an online PC and then left. I washed my body and my clothes and checked my email. A very generous and trusting man; I shall not forget him.

Next morning. I found the Post Office and mailed more things back. My pack weight which started this hike at 48 lbs. is down to 36 lbs. Also bought some groceries.

Noon. Hitchhiked back to the trail and hiked to the Wawayonda shelter, only about seven miles, but on the other side of a very steep mountain. Tough climb for me.

4-12. Had my first shelter-mate tonight, a 64 year old cowboy missionary from Minnesota. Ken Downey is an interesting guy. He rode a horse from Quakertown, PA to Seattle, WA. Then he rode another horse from Louisiana to Minnesota. He drove the routes in advance and planned all of the rest stops, etc.

4-13. Miserable day. Hiked twelve miles in pouring rain. Ugh! In New York State now and spending the night at the Wildcat shelter. Ken is here too. He's hiking into Arden tomorrow to pick up mail drop (food) from Post Office that closes at noon. Ten miles away; he will have to leave very early.

4-14 Ken decided he couldn't make the P.O. before noon, and we agreed to meet in Southfield, NY tonight and share a motel room. Give us a chance to dry our clothes--everything is wet and heavy--and he can pickup mail in the morning.

Afternoon. We are in the Tuxedo Inn and the motel manager is washing our clothes. Life is good.